By John Newton

When asked what it is that sets his business apart from others, proprietor Jon Osbeiston replies “a wider range outside the mainstream without ignoring the mainstream.” That is an understatement.

The pulse of anyone with even a vague interest in wine will start racing on entering this wine wonderland. As you walk past the stacked boxes of bin end specials – always worth a browse - and into the store proper, you will be confronted by an enormous range of the most interesting wines - and spirits - from around the world and Australia, racked by country of origin.

If bewildered by the choice, holler for help. The staff here are all out and proud wine boffins, many on their way to or from working at a vineyard or studying winemaking.

But Jon Osbeiston has another endearing trait, besides modesty: he loves value as much as he loves quality. And in these trying times, he has an eye for a bargain.

“Quality of winemaking has improved around the traditional winemaking countries of the world” he tells us, “and so has value. We’ll be concentrating on delivering something interesting at a good price point: more bang for your buck.” He is over, he says, “high priced wines that don’t live up to their tags.”

Which is not to say you won’t find genuinely rare and exquisite wines in store. But if they wear a high price tag, they deserve it.

Here you will also find everything for your wine loving friends or lovers:
the full range of Reidel stemware, the largest range of wine books in town – if not the country – and an array of glamorous paraphernalia.

This is where you begin your search for that elusive red wine from the R?one (Mr Osbeiston’s favourite region) or the Palo Cortado sherry you fell in love with in Granada.

(Weekly tastings and regular wine dinners hosted by Ultimo Wine Centre are detailed on the home page of the website www.ultimowinecentre.com.au)